Eleven Steps: What Actually Goes Into an Ajrakh Print

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Ask most people what “block print” means and they picture a stamp pressed once, in one colour. Ajrakh is closer to a negotiation between mud, dye, water and sun that runs across as many as sixteen separate stages before a length of cloth is ready to be cut.

Preparing the cloth

Raw cotton is washed to strip out starch and natural oils, then treated in a softening bath that helps the fabric take dye evenly later on.

The resist paste

A paste of lime and gum arabic is block-printed wherever the cloth should stay pale. Wherever this resist sits, dye can’t reach the fibre.

Indigo, in layers

The cloth is dipped in a fermented natural indigo vat, then aired so the dye oxidises from green to deep blue. Several dips build depth of colour that a single dip can’t match.

Every wash, every re-dip, is visible in the finished cloth if you know where to look — and that variation is the proof of hand-work, not a flaw to be corrected.

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